Marilynn calls me over to the world map hanging on our wall. “Look at this place.” She points to a big group of islands way north of Norway and east of Greenland. “Wouldn’t it be cool to go here?” I cock my head sideways. “What is it?” I ask. “Svalbard,” she says. And thus begins our adventure. Neither one of us can resist going somewhere simply just to see it. And we are particularly drawn to far flung locations. The more remote the better. How do we even get there?

Turns out it is easy to get there, despite it’s remote location. Simply take a 3.5 hour flight from Oslo Norway. Actually, Svalbard is an unincorporated sovereign territory of Norway and sits about halfway between Norway and the North Pole.

Flying over Svalbard

We fly over frozen mountains to the world’s most northern airport, take the bus into Longyearbyen, the largest urban center on the archipelago, and have a pour in the world’s most northern pub. Ya’ll know that that is how we roll.

Driving into Longyearbyen from the Airport

Have to get a beer at the northernmost Pub in the world

Now, time to get on with it. Strolling along the streets in 30 degrees F (-1.1 C) through the main township of Longyearbyen looks a bit like remote areas in Alaska. Snowmobiles and dogsleds (dog buggies in the summer) litter the driveways and yards. Preserved remnants of its coal mining history greet you amidst the fresh, crisp Arctic air. They are proud of their coal mining roots, and many mines, shantys, and processing plants preserved as remnants make it look as if the mines are still in operation even though they are not.

Everybody needs a snowmobile

Sled / Buggy dogs ready to run

Fish dry in the Polar Arctic air, while reindeer antlers adorn dwellings. Colorful, neatly rowed housing appears a bit out of place in this frozen, dramatic land.

Typical outdoor decor

Residential Longyearbyen

Stop for a cup of coffee at the Cozy Café Husky, where you are greeted by…, what else?

Meeting a few of the famous Huskies

It is illegal to travel outside of this town settlement without a high-caliber bolt-action rifle (.308 or .30-06). Polar Bears roam freely. This is their land and they are hard to see in a snowstorm. Their population in the Barents Sea numbers 3,000, and three hundred of them live in Svalbard, where 2500 humans reside. At various times of year, the small human population of Svalbard represents workers from at least forty different countries.

Downtown Longyearbyen and historic bronze statue, The Miner

Residential Longyearbyen

How can we resist trying out the super expensive fine dining experience of Arctic delectables served at the Husset Historic Mining House and Restaurant?

Walking to Huset Historic Mining House and Restaurant

Cold, dry polar wind whips across our faces as we walk to the restaurant, which used to house miners in the early 1900’s. We pass the northernmost graveyard in the world. Dying and being buried in Svalbard has not been permitted since 1950.

Passing the one graveyard in town and one of the old mines

Buried bodies do not decay in the permafrost of this frozen land, which could lead to the spread of virus and other disease. That makes looking at the gravesites a bit eerie. While on the subject, being born here is not permitted either. The small hospital has neither a maternity ward nor any specialized equipment in the event of a complicated birth. So, if you want to be born, or if you want to die you must travel to Norway to do it.

Tundra fall colors and fresh snow on the mountains

Our strange meal tastes, let us say “different” than most other foods. From fermented seal and seaweed to pickled pine needles, we start to wonder if booking a day-long boat tour the following morning was a smart idea? One thing is certain, it is the most expensive meal of our lives, by far.

A few highlights from our 14 course Nordic tasting menu

Fermented seaweed sponge cake and pickled pine needles (really!)

Pleased to report no stomach issues the next day as we board a speedboat. Dolphins race with us through this stunning fjord surrounded by jagged mountains and massive glaciers.

Dolphins

We pass the active Russian mining town of Barentsburg. A fellow tourist from Germany explains that the coal in Svalbard has the highest carbon content of any other. Germany uses it to make steel for engine parts for high-end Mercedes and BMW because of the high heat capability. There is only one pile of coal left, Germany owns it but is saddened that Svalbard ended all coal operations.

Barentsburg the Russian mining camp still in operation on Svalbard

The settlement of Longyearbyen got its name from an American who built a coal mine back in 1906 with the Arctic Coal Company. He sold the enterprise to a Norwegian company in 1916. The only coal mine still operating in Svalbard is the Russian state-owned mine of Barentsburg. We cannot begin to imagine how brutal and cold the conditions were for coal miners in the early 1900’s.

We were lucky to have a beautiful day for our boat excursion

As we pass the Borebreen Glacier, our captain explains that these glacier arms are part of one giant, humungous glacier. It was thought to be growing but it is surging. Water builds up at the base of the glacier due to more rain than snow and climate change.

Borebreen Glacier

Surging glaciers are extremely unstable, and thus unsuitable for snowmobiling or hiking. They can slide forward at extreme speeds and consume islands. We witness powerful calving and the ensuing waves, from a safe distance.

Ice from Borebreen Glacier

Marilynn’s motor never stops. The next morning, she heads out on a hiking excursion up 1053ft (321m) in 2.5 miles to the top of Blomsterdalshogda Mountain. All excursions on Svalbard must be on a tour, due to the need for rifles, and the other safety equipment necessary to safely traverse this frozen land.

Hiking up Blomsterdalshogda

Views from top of Blomsterdalshogda

You really cannot come to Svalbard and not stop at the Global Seed Vault. While unable to go inside the vault, for obvious reasons, it is a fascinating destination and story. The vault is carved into a permafrost mountain and holds over 1.4 million duplicate seed samples that represent thousands of plant species from most countries on earth. It serves as a crop diversity safeguard against war, natural disasters, climate change, and whatever else. In 2015 Syria used seeds from here after civil war destroyed a gene bank.

Global Seed Vault

Of course, we must walk to the famous “Polar Bear Crossing” sign before happy hour begins.

The “Bear Sign”

The rugged beauty surrounding this strange land provides a rare glimpse into the pristine, frozen wilderness. Tourism has replaced coal mining as the main economy, throughout all seasons. It would be really cool to visit in the winter. Simply just to see it.

Svalbard

Farewell Svalbard

Thank You, Abundant Universe!