Pythons Rule

Apollo pays for our hotel and he is just about out of money. So, after the canoe ride back to the mainland, we save money by walking up the dusty road, in that hot African sun, to the main street. No taxis to be found on account of a taxi strike, protesting the police...

Stilted Village

Over breakfast of fresh coffee and baguette, we still laugh about the worms dropping from the ceiling last night – a new experience for both of us. We decide not to complain to the staff. What would they do anyway? Besides, the worms provide us a good story. Back onto...

Voodoo Ceremony in Benin

We hear the drummers pound a unique, rhythmic beat with plenty of cowbell. The fetish priests form a dancing line behind the top man, the Voodoonou, who fluidly guides the line, slithering around and circling the House of Python. The women join, headed by the...

Voodoo Child

After a long day of travel and sightseeing, at six o’clock in the evening we head out to a Voodoo ceremony. Three people to a scooter, Mare sits between two men on one scooter, and I on another. I have never felt such closeness, sandwiched between two men before. Mare...

People for Cannons

Bushed, from changing taxis several times in several villages, in the stifling heat, we stop alongside the road. Apollo negotiates his beaded bracelet with an elderly, topless, woman, so that Mare can use her outhouse. Mostly, throughout Western Africa, people relieve...

Restorative Justice Voodoo Style

Theo, the proprietor, joins us for breakfast. He speaks French, so our conversation is rather limited until Apollo shows up to translate. Meanwhile, we watch children cast their nets into the shallow lake, fishing for Tilapia. Apollo returns. “The elder men in the...