Escalating war in the Middle East. Governmental discord and disfunction in the USA. Transportation Security Administration (TSA) workers calling in sick because they are not being paid. We are beyond fortunate to safely fly from the United States to Portugal. It is late at night when we finally jump into a rental car at the Lisbon airport and drive one and one-half hours to the coastal town of Nazare, Portugal.
Ah, this is more like it. Sit on the balcony of an 11th floor Airbnb for one month and stare at the ocean. Not so fast. Surf’s up, baby!
Room with a View, Nazare Portugal
Nazare is famous for world record waves on the North Shore, surfed by wild, professional “Big Wave” surfers. Time to take a walk down to the cliffs near the lighthouse during daylight hours and see it. This quickly becomes Marilynn’s “happy place.”
Surf’s Up!!
A 16,000 foot (4,900 meters) deep underwater canyon runs for 140 miles (225 km) and forces 100-foot-plus waves to the surface. Not the place for an amateur surfer. Jet skis tow all surfers beyond the breakers and trail them for pick-up after a successful wave ride or crash due to the extreme danger.
Sebastian Stendtner holds the official record of surfing an 86 ft (26.21 meter) wave ridden on October 29, 2020. His potential new world record, pending ratification, stands at 93.73 ft (28.57 meters) and he is currently awaiting verification of a ninety-five-foot (29 meters) wave he surfed.
Shops, restaurants, a church, and a Ferris wheel surround the square in Sitio, the historical Center of Nazare. Sitio sits up on the hill, near the Nazare Lighthouse. During our morning walks to the lighthouse the wind almost blows Marilynn off her feet.
Sitio Nazare, Historical Center
We call Sitio “uptown” because the town of Nazare sits below on the Atlantic shore “downtown.” Both towns are connected by a steep set of stairs, as well as roads. A cable car is also in place, but it is currently closed for maintenance and technical upgrades.
The walk from downtown to uptown
My “happy place” is the grocery store. As the main family cook, I of course do the food shopping. Grocery stores reveal the intricacies of cultures around the world. When living in a different country for an entire month, food shopping is a wonderful way to experience understanding, respect, and cooperation. While people are friendly and helpful to this English-only speaker, I am grateful to supplement their kindness with my cell phone translator app, which is invaluable for reading labels. Also worth mentioning, grocery prices are less than half of those in the USA.
Mussels and Clams on the Balcony
Ron’s Shrimp, Spinach, and Tomato Pasta
Restaurant prices are inexpensive as well. While we mostly enjoy homecooked meals on our balcony, the restaurants cook things I cannot, and provide us with delicious meat, seafood, and bakery options.
Lamb Shank
Calamari and Shrimp Kabob, Grilled Sardines on the Side
Porco Alentejano, Pork and Clams
Bifana, the iconic Portuguese sandwich
Pastel de Nata, Famous Portuguese Custard Tarts
We love to share our travels through this blog, but it is extra special when we can share with friends in person. Welcome to our friend from the USA! So glad that he made it, considering all the airport and war chaos.
Sharing Obidos
We spent the next week sharing our temporary home, the surfers, local cuisine, and the walled medieval town of Obidos, only a thirty-minute drive away.
Obidos
About three hundred people live inside the historical part of Obidos, founded by the Celts about 2,000 years ago. Shops, restaurants, and residential dwellings line the cobblestone streets.
Obidos, Portugal
Obidos
Until the 15th century, Obidos lay on the coast, where ships would moor near its walls. Fierce storms and a tsunami dumped sandbars that moved the coastline five miles to the west.
Obidos, Portugal
We eat “Pasteis de Bacalhau” the deep-fried, spiced, oval shaped fritter made from shredded salt cod and in this case fresh melted sheep cheese in the middle.
Making street snack from Bacalhau
Follow that with a glass of “Ginjinha” a sweet, intense Portuguese sour cherry liqueur served in a small, edible chocolate cup. Then burn off the calories by climbing the walls a bit.
Ginja from Obidos
We had a wonderful visit, but all visits must end.
When it’s time for your guest to leave
Nazare sprawls along a massive beach full of frolickers, gamers, sunbathers, walkers, and a living museum intent on preserving the ancestral tradition of fish drying.
Nazare Promenade on Sunday morning
Fish Drying Area
Marilynn and I walk down the steep staircase to downtown Nazare and sip small beers with the locals quite often. They do not have traditional bars here, where you cozy up on a stool and drink all day. Rather, some of the Cervecerias, which all serve meals, place a table on top of a permanently parked motorbike by the sidewalk for a stand-up bar.
Sunday Brunch on the Beach: Bikers, Beers, Barnacles
We especially enjoy Sunday brunch on the beach with bikers, beers, and barnacles. Marilynn loves barnacles, but they are not my favorite food, resembling what an infant circumcision might look like. Not that I have ever seen one, just sayin.’
Gooseneck Barnacles
Time for another road trip. This time to two different UNESCO World Heritage site monasteries. “Mosteiro de Alcobaca” was built nine hundred years ago of Cistercian architecture. In the year 1223, it is believed that 999 monks moved in and masses continued without a break. Why not 1,000 monks? I have no idea.
Monastery of Alcobaca
The “Mosteiro da Batalha” sits a one-half hour drive away and is an absolute masterpiece of Gothic art. Reminds us of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris.
Batalha Monastery
Chapel in Batalha Monastery
Batalha Monastery
Meanwhile, back at our apartment balcony (our main happy place), we sip beers, stare at the panoramic view, and reminisce about our one-month stay in Nazare. The weather stays cool, and intermingles between misty and sunny, with fresh wind blowing often. Perfect for us, as we avoid 100+ F degree temperatures in Arizona.
Adeus Portugal ❤️
People we know in the USA talk about wanting to retire in Portugal. We can see why. The people here are gracious, open, and kind. And most speak English, which makes things easier for a couple of monolinguals like us. The cost of living is relatively low and the food is terrific. A lot to love here. However, Marilynn and I are not ready to retire from traveling and “living in different countries for a month.” Stay tuned, as we fly to Cyprus in a few days. War permitting of course.
Coastline near Sao Pedro de Moel
Thank You, Abundant Universe!
Thanks always for including Susie and me in sharing your adventures. Love it. Ron…you are quite the chef. I love the food porn. 😎🙌💪
From one cook to another, my pleasure!
Holy moly those surfs are insane . 80 and 90 foot waves are you kidding me ? That’s wild . I could sit for hours and watch those dudes . Yes I’ve read several articles about Portugal being one of the more favorable countries for American retirees with the cost of living and their health system being ranked very favorable . And it helps that English is spoken rather often .Once again you guys have gone above and beyond in sharing your adventures with us and I look forward to seeing what Cypress has to offer . A friend of mine is planning a trip to Greece later this summer . Thanks again guys . As always stay safe and can’t wait for the next adventure .
Thank you so much, Glenn. Actually, we’re going to Cyprus, by Turkey and then on to Jordan which is only a one hour flight away. This war might force a change in plans, though.
Cyprus is confusing in that regard as the northern part is Turkish controlled, sort of off-limits and not recognized as a country, and the southern part where we will be is of Greek influence and Cypriot Greek but is a recognized sovereign country. Either way, we hope to find out in a couple of days!
Thanks for the beautiful pics, amazing food descriptions and insight into life in Portugal. Definitely a retirement destination!
You’re welcome! This is definitely a place where we could live, but definitely not yet.
Bro, you wrote you were an English-only speaker. I recall you took a Latin course. If only you had a priest to translate.
Ha ha I took four Latin courses. It qualified as a Minor. Just translation though, not conversation. Helps me to read romance languages though.
Sounds like another grand adventure. Wholeheartedly agree with embracing the culture through supermarkets and food… just with I was half the cook you are Ron.
Thank you for the compliment, Jay, but in truth we all have a handful of dishes that come out fine. It’s just a matter of whether you love to do it or not. The grocery shopping part though, is special and in my case must be done alone.
Once again your words are poetry to those who appreciate travel, history, and travel. I agree wholeheartedly with a grocery store being one of the best ways to explore culture; along with stops at street side food vendors where locals gather!
Did you find smoked olive oil??
Thank you, Julie. And I agree about the street side vendors and markets. But, no. Did not know about smoked olive oil. But there was a big jug of good stuff here at the AB&B so we just used that .
Was going to say the ferris wheel was how I’d spend my time there, but then I saw the food. OMG…!!!! Wonderful. And dang – M’s photography is on a whole new level.
They took the cabs off of the Ferris wheel for maintenance, and then started putting them back on when we were leaving. Yes, Mare’s photos make the blog alive!
Love this Portugal blog and all the beautiful stories and pics to go with! Like always, Makes me feel like I am there.
Thank you, Jeri! We are currently doing the same thing in Cyprus,