After several chaotic airport delays and reroutes, our overnight flight from Phoenix, Arizona finally lands in Dublin, Ireland. Despite getting little sleep, we must stay awake and adjust to this new time zone. Jump right into a rental car, stress drive on the left side of the road, and head to Belfast in Northern Ireland, UK. Two countries in two hours!
Eleven nights in Ireland
Time to find a pub (no problem) for pours of Guinness. It tastes lighter than back in the US, due to its proximity to St. James Gate brewery. Sitting in the two-hundred-year-old Crown Bar, we decide to save wandering around the city for tomorrow’s activity, because it is a fantabulous night for a…, long sleep!
The Crown Bar Belfast
The Titanic Museum commemorates the major feat of building the ship, despite its tragic ending. Not too far from the museum sits The Beacon of Hope sculpture, which locals refer to as “The thing with the ring” or “Nuala with the hula.”
Titanic Belfast
“The thing with a ring” Belfast
Belfast City Hall
Constructed Peace Walls divided Protestant from Catholic neighborhoods during the approximate thirty-year war campaign originally initiated to end discrimination against Catholics. They constantly added height and fortification to the walls so that bombs could not be thrown over the top. Hard to imagine that “The Troubles” ended as recent as 1998.
Peace Wall Belfast
Peace Wall Belfast
Itching to drive the Irish countryside, we head north and cruise the Causeway Coastal Route. Emerald fields dotted with grazing sheep line the hills between stretches of the North Atlantic Sea. “Stay left! Stay left!” becomes our mantra.
So GREEN!
Views along Causeway Coast Route
Driving the Causeway Coastal Route
Giants Causeway, North Ireland
Narrow roads, often lined with rock walls covered in vegetation, make for tense driving conditions. Trying to pass farm machinery and buses on these roads make a four-hour drive feel like a long day’s work. Thankfully, the proprietor of our night’s accommodation in the lovely town of Donegal left a bottle of Prosecco waiting for us. It did not last long.
Well earned luxury in Donegal
Finally, we have the opportunity to purchase fresh, healthy food at a nearby grocery store. Smoked Mackerel and Brie Cheese tastes better than it sounds. It also provides a welcome break from heavy pub fare consisting mostly of fried foods, meats and heavy stews. We would have enjoyed another night in Donegal with its impressive castle and quaint downtown, but we have prebooked accommodations in Doolin, near the Cliffs of Mohr.
Donegal Castle
Hiking up and around the cliffs in high rainy winds, with waves crashing below refreshes our spirits. Our “Glamping Pod” has wonderful countryside and castle views, but no amenities in walking distance, so off to a pub we go, where the Guinness pours and fried fare fills our plates.
Hiking the Cliffs of Moher
A rainbow at the Cliffs of Moher
Cliffs of Moher
Our Pod in Doolin
Views in Doolin
Views from our Pod in Doolin
Fish and chips at the Pub
Oops. Driving narrow roads half-buzzed in the darkness of night presents an unintended challenge, even if only for one mile. Never thought that I would be so happy to follow a bus on a narrow road, but it makes our drive all the safer.
Driving home from the pub in Doolin after dark
During the drive from Doolin to Dingle, sheets of rain pound our little rental car. No worries, we have a country cottage with a wood and coal burner waiting for us for two nights.
Our cottage in Dingle
Our cozy cottage during stormy weather in Dingle
A local fish market provides fantabulous fresh seafood of crab claws and Hake, which I sauté in garlic, butter, and olive oil on our stove.
Downtown Dingle
Sideways rain pelts the stone cottage for two days. I cook fresh lamb chops and potatoes the following day and begin to understand the reason for all the heavy Irish fare. We are snug and happy.
Lamb chops for dinner, Dingle
Onward ho, to cruise the “Slea Head Drive” around the Dingle Peninsula. This drive marks our favorite of the entire trip, full of picturesque landscape and less traffic this off-season time of year.
Driving the Slea Head Loop, Dingle Peninsula
Views surround the Dingle Peninsula
Driving the Slea Head Loop
The Wild Atlantic Way
We celebrate my birthday in the town of Killarney (another place we could stay longer) and get our first taste of live Irish Music.
St. Mary’s Cathedral Killarney
Favorite venue in Killarney
Our last drive takes four hours to the congested roads of Dublin where we are happy to return the rental car. Easy to enjoy this large, grimy city of five million people full of attractions and amenities. We roam around for four days and enjoy just taking it all in.
Dublin
Dublin
River Liffey, Dublin
Christ Church Cathedral Dublin
The Temple Bar Pub, Dublin
McCafferty’s Pub, Dublin
Guinness pours, live Irish music plays, and the Bram Stoker festival graces our final night in Dublin. Eleven days in Ireland was not quite enough for us to truly appreciate all that we could have. We spent too much time driving. Next time we would spend more days in the smaller towns and less time on the road. Slainte!
Thank you, Abundant Universe!
Thanks for the memories. We spent 4 summers there- switching houses with Irish families.
You are welcome. I think that that is a better way to experience it, than trying to see too many areas in eleven days.
Hey Ron Happy Birthday again. Great reading about this latest adventure. It sound like you needed 30 days in Ireland. Give your girl a hug and kiss from Dulce and I 🍻👍🏾😎🎉🎂
Thank you, James.
XOXO to you both! And you are right James. We could definitely have used more time. Marilynn
What FUN!
And now we are in Arenys de Mar, Spain. Where it rains mainly on the plain.
So much of this post reminded me of a trip I took to Ireland with a buddy forever ago, granted your accommodations looked way nicer than the hostels we slept in, but repeating to myself which side of the road to drive on (while trying to operate a manual with my left hand) definitely happened. The pubs were awesome, especially those with live music, but after a week of pub grub we both decided to stay in our last night and just eat a huge salad and drink about a gallon of water. Thanks for sharing helping me to relive my own trip.
Always a pleasure to share travel stories together. We certainly remember the hostel days and I can say that I do not miss them so much. Think that we are over the age limit for many of them and that is just fine with me!
Yeah, last year in Albania I tried to stay in a dorm in a hostel and was told I was too old! They had a huge sign in the lobby saying, “No one over 55 years old!” Dang, guess I am forced to stay in the fancy places lol. Marilynn
Wow dude now THAT’S a trip I definitely would love to experience some day . As you know how much I love the water those views from the Cliffs were amazing . And the pubs looked like that would be a fun time to hangout . Really enjoyed this one bud . Once again you guys came through with another exciting adventure for us all to enjoy . Oh and finally I commend your choice of eats . The fish and chips and lamb chops looked delicious . Thanks for another fun read and look forward to wherever the next journey takes you . Stay safe and safe travels .
Thank you, Glenn. Ah, those lamb chops were so tender and tasty. I’m a big fan of lamb, especially an Ossobuco shank! Speaking of water, just wait until you see the next post from Arenys de Mar, Spain!
Always enjoy taking you along for the ride Glenn! You really should live on an island surrounded by water. Such appreciation! I love it too, but then again, I love the mountains too. Luckily we don’t have to choose just one. I think you’ll approve of our next destination, but probably not the food lol.
❤️
Thank you, Denise 😊
Such lovely ness everywhere!
Green and blue, Seahawks colors everywhere!
Definitely one way to look at it. I’m a cursed
fan myself, wearing black and gold colors.
Happy Birthday Bro, I thought your birthday was in September; Oh well. The thought of driving on the left, would really stress me out; especially at night or if was raining.
Thanks, Bro! Driving on any side at night in the rain is freaky enough as it is.
Happy birthday ageless wonder! Ireland is beautiful! Love the story and pics. Enjoy your journey!
Thank you, Holly! We are now in Arenys de Mar, Spain and kicking back for a while.
Thank you, Holly! We are now in Arenys de Mar, Spain and kicking back. You would love it.
Wow, great pictures, Ron. Looks like a fabulous trip…soooo much in 11 days.
Yes, Crystal, a bit much to chew for only eleven days for sure. Marilynn gets credits for the pictures though. We are currently kicking back in the port of Arenys de Mar, Spain and look forward to reconnecting with you guys when the opportunity comes!
Great stuff it’s always a pleasure to follow u to inn all your travels stay safe and keep the pics coming
Eddie my brother, we are simply grateful to still be mobile enough to keep on truckin’ on. Thank you for your kind words. Marilynn is the one who has the eye for taking pictures. I am too nervous and jerky for that.
I so enjoy your travel blog Ron (and Marilynn). I actually may want to visit Ireland now because of your beautiful pictures! It looks gorgeous and dramatic!
Thank you, Karen. We have a lot of fun putting the blog together, usually!