Live music fills the streets and pubs of downtown St. John’s as if it is the Austin, Texas of far northeast Canada. Day or night, Irish music rules this city.

Free concert downtown St. John’s, Newfoundland

A Traditional Irish Session at Erin’s Pub, St. John’s, Newfoundland

How far northeast is it? The most easterly point in North America. From this point, if you stand at the lighthouse of Cape Spear and gaze over the North Atlantic Ocean, the first land you see would be Ireland, approximately 2,000 miles (3211km) away. We are closer to Ireland than to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.

Hiking Cape Spear, Newfoundland, the Easternmost point in North America

Views from Cape Spear, Newfoundland

From our Airbnb “Treehouse” which we rented for one month, the walk to downtown St. John’s takes us past “Jellybean Row Houses” along the way. The colorful, historic homes are under constant renovation but are worth the extra efforts.

St. John’s, Newfoundland

A walking tour of St. John’s music scene brings us first to famous George Street, only two blocks long and full of nothing but bars, pubs, and restaurants.

Pub hopping on George Street, St. John’s, Newfoundland

Where are we, Ireland? Almost. It seemed every pub that we either visited or walked past had live Irish music by excellent musicians. Click on the link below for short clip of an impromptu traditional Irish session, which happens often in these parts:

https://youtube.com/shorts/q7ugHLhnk50?si=TpvCAIjHLLpbIGGY

Make no mistake, corned beef and cabbage constitutes a main staple of many households. Irish author Pat Coogan described Newfoundland (pronounced NewfoundLAND as opposed to NewfoundLUND) as “the most Irish place in the world outside of Ireland.”

Music at Shamrock City Pub, St. John’s, Newfoundland

At least 20% of the population has direct Irish descendants. The first immigrants found the rugged landscape and rich greenery not entirely different from what they were used to. Although initially mostly farmers, the locals embraced them for their strong work ethic and cheap labor and taught them the fishing industry.

Music at the Black Sheep, St. John’s, Newfoundland

The Newfoundland accent simulates that in Ireland. Often, it sounds like a different language than English to us, but they sense that right away and slow it down. This is just one example of how nice people are around here. They will stop and chat with you forever. Even the grocery store clerks with customers, oblivious to the lengthy line. Nobody else in the line cares, except this American boy who must adjust to not being in a hurry all the time. Where do I need to go?

Traditional Irish Session at The Embassy Pub St Johns, Newfoundland

Within walking distance to our treehouse, we find a fish market full of Cod with separated cheeks/tongues, mussels, halibut, smoked salmon, and lobsters. Nearby is a butcher shop with Marilynn’s favorite – chicken hearts, and a bakery with my favorite, sourdough bread.

Marilynn on the Tree House Deck

Our Tree House, St. John’s, Newfoundland

And then we have the weekly farmer’s market full of local delicacies like chantarelle mushrooms, farm fresh eggs, and wild blueberries picked by hand. This American boy is not in such a hurry at these locally owned neighborhood stores and markets. In fact, Marilynn must drag me away from discussing custom cars and wild turkeys with the proprietors.

Wild Mushrooms at the Farmer’s Market

“The Works” gym at Memorial University nearby helps to keep us physically/mentally fit. Walking the steep hills to markets and bars keeps us huffing and puffing as well. Why am I still fat? Must be those thick stouts, aye?

Our gym, St. John’s, Newfoundland

A month of great music, eating, working out, recreating, and partying with the locals gives us a good glimpse of the culture.

The Embassy Pub, St. John’s, Newfoundland

Night Life St. John’s, Newfoundland

We really like it. Thinking that we could easily live here. As my long-haired friend below said, “No one ever comes to Newfoundland just once.”

Making friends in St. John’s, Newfoundland

Shall miss this small-town atmosphere, music, people, unique seafood, and fresh cool air. However, as winter approaches, ten feet of snow sounds a bit ominous. It is time to head back to the desert.

Views of St. John’s, Newfoundland from Signal Hill

Thank you, Abundant Universe!