Huge RV’s dwarf our tiny Tacoma pickup truck in McKinley’s Marina & RV Park. “This could be the only campsite left on the Oregon coast,” Marilynn says.
“Everybody comes here on the weekend when it is hot in Portland, especially since coronavirus. We’re lucky to find a spot.” Welcome to Waldport, USA.
Each afternoon chilled winds blow up to 19 mph, making it impossible to sit outside next to the bay. Gives us a good reason to go to Moe’s for some world-famous oyster stew.
As we try to dine inside the cab of my truck, at perhaps the only parking spot left in historic downtown Newport, I squeeze the flimsy paper bowl filled with steaming oyster stew. In slow motion, oysters fly into the air, descending upon my steering wheel, center console, and lap, followed by the smashed bowl of steaming milk. Unbelievable. Kind-hearted Marilynn shares the rest of her stew with me. I have never asked for oyster-stew “car scent” at the car wash before, but it is not bad. Makes you hungry every time you get into the cab. Let’s walk off lunch and the smell.
Despite the mobs and lack of privacy (Unless you are in a trailer of some sort) back at camp, this spot proves its worth with the feast of delights surrounding it, including solitude during walks on the beach. One of our neighbors returns from a charter fishing trip where he caught his limit of Dungeness crab and sea bass.
“Take some crabs, they’re already cooked,” he says. Marilynn grabs one. “Take more if you want.” We do not want to appear greedy, at least we force ourselves not to. “Have some sea bass,” his wife says. “He reluctantly hands me a sea bass. Thank you, total stranger!
After a scenic hike around Cape Perpetua, back at camp we find shelter from the wind by a hillside next to shore. A pretty private place in direct sunlight chock full of blackberries. Although sitting in direct sunlight brings discomfort, it is more comfortable than the wind. After several days of this, we have a suntan like back in teenage years.
One man comes down to pick a bucket of blackberries. “Someone has to die if you want one of the RV fulltime hookup spots here.” He gets excited. “I just lucked out on my first try!”
Time to bed down early, as the cool wind and sound of the incoming tide in Alsea Bay serenade us to sleep. Plus, legal gummy bears in this state provide a mellow sleep aid.
From here on out I do my fishing at the “Crab Shack” where everything is biting on dollar bills and credit cards.
I “catch” fresh oysters to par boil for egg omelets.
Top your salad with a pound of dungeness crab meat.
Filet some fresh sea bass to sauté in butter.
Snack on fresh Oregon bay shrimp.
Decadence! How long can we feast on these delights before getting tired of them?
Six days. That is about how long. Mainly, we need to get away from the constant presence of people. The woods continue to call us. The place to be.
Travel angels smile upon us once again, as we find the best campsite ever. Far away from amenities and cell phone signals/internet for the party crowd, we have old growth forest to ourselves. Paradise, off the grid with our own private beach along Jackson Creek which we aptly name “Mitchell/Windust Beach. More to come…
Thank you, Abundant Universe!