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Nova Scotia, Loving New Scotland

Tide coming inWelcome to the highest ocean tides in the world. Folks around Bay of Fundy, Nova Scotia adapt to tides from 47 to 54 feet.

IMG_2389We start to set up camp in Advocate Harbour, when a woman calls us over to her car, which contains seven small yapping terriers. “I know a campsite with much better ambiance,” she says. “Get your money back and follow me. It’s a bit hard to find. I’m Glenda. I’ve had three concussions.”Eagles on Bay of FundyOkay, how can we refuse that offer? Fifteen minutes later we set up camp on the edge of the Bay of Fundy at low tide, and watch eagles feast on easy prey. Yes, this former shipyard turned campground turns out to be a gem. Thank you, Glenda!Camping on Bay of FundyIn the morning as we watch the tide return, two women walk past our campsite carrying bags full of what we surmise to be clams. “Oh no,” Jan says. “This is dulse.” She grabs a handful and shows us. “Seaweed?” I ask. “Yes. We come here every year during a new moon to collect enough to last all year.” She explains that you dry it out in the sun until it gets crispy. “I like to leave the sea salt on it, but some people wash it first. It’s good for the blood.”Drying DulseDulse contains a bunch of minerals like potassium and iron. Supposed to improve vision, immunity, bones, thyroid, lower blood pressure, and strengthen the brain. We now carry a bag of it in the truck and chew some every day. Thank you, Jan. We need all the brain help possible!Cape dOr LighthouseAfter an outing to explore the Cape d’Or Lighthouse, we return to camp and watch the tide surround us. Soon we sleep to the sound of waves lapping within a few feet of our truck.Cape Chignecto 2Let’s hike part of the Coastal Trail in Cape Chignecto, an isolated wilderness area. Filled with many sea cliff views, this heart-pumper provides a sweaty workout.Three sistersDuring the drive back to camp, we must wait in the truck for the road to clear from high tide. Good opportunity for a cold one. high tideWe have lots of fun driving around Nova Scotia, stopping in cool fishing villages for tastes of local craft beers and seafood delights.LunenburgMarilynn finally finds some oysters to her liking, and I find scallops. As you can tell, folks are beyond friendly. Nova Scotia scallopsAfter a week of camping, the rains decide to pour, presenting perfect timing for some luxury. We splurge on a harbor view room at the Cambridge Suites in Halifax. The hotel feels so good that I don’t leave it, not for one step, except from the parking lot. Marilynn walks around town in the rain, while I write in the luxurious room.

20170824_064542We happen to hit the hotel on Wednesday, when they have free drinks and hors d’oeuvres for an hour in the evening. Of course, we make friends with the free drink guy. Follow up in the morning with free breakfast, a gym workout complete with sauna and jacuzzi, and we’re strong, clean, ready for more camping and hiking.WhycocomaughDriving the Cabot trail offers diverse scenery and excellent hiking opportunities.

Driving

Driving 2Perhaps we expect to see more dramatic vistas due to the hype, but it’s still nice and will be spectacular when the fall colors come.IvernessAlong the Celidh Trail, the scenery reminds us of Scotland. Of course, we have never been to Scotland, but almost feel as though we’re there.

Skyline Trail 2The Skyline Trail wraps around an easy five-mile loop through boreal forest and coastal views. Fenced-off areas keep moose out so that the forest can grow.Hiking Skyline Trail 1Otherwise, moose consume the saplings, leaving the terrain barren. Our good luck continues when we spot a mama moose eating the forest, despite the crowds and fences. MooseBack at camp, to hell with lobster utensils. We have an ax!LobsterThe first lighthouse in Canada was in Louisbourg. It’s no longer there, but they built one to replace it. Louisbourg LighthouseThe Lighthouse Trail traverses about 4 miles, weaving between boreal and Acadia forest, over bogs and fens, and Precambrian polished granite on the coastline.HIkeThe French fought off the British here, and many shipwrecks lie somewhere under that ocean.MareOkay, it’s time to clean-up again, this time at Mountain Vista Seaside Cottages in Bras d’Or. We’ll cook our own food and reorganize the truck for the morning ferry ride to…, drum roll…, Newfoundland!

 

 

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13 Comments Post a comment
  1. Skip #

    FANFREAKINTASTIC…..

    August 27, 2017
  2. Looks glorious! Like that those hikes are not straight up, more of a meandering style! Thanks for sharing!

    August 27, 2017
  3. Ma & Pa #

    Beautiful scenery and writing…. you guys know how to do it right! Stay safe!

    August 27, 2017
  4. We’ve always loved the “Free Drink Guy” too!

    August 27, 2017
  5. Denise Ahl #

    Pretty cool! Keep on inspiring!

    August 27, 2017
  6. Did you hear any Cape Breton fiddling? Looks like another great trip. Many other Americans?

    August 28, 2017
    • Heard some fiddling on the radio in most stores, nothing live. A small handful of yanks, mostly guys married to Canadian women as far as i know. Many folks from Scotland visiting kin.

      August 28, 2017
  7. Sounds like a great trip. It’s a beautiful part of Canada.

    August 28, 2017

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