Nothing like a great sleep on a 13-hour overnight train, until Hungarian Border Police find a problem with our passport. Someone stamped it incorrectly along the way, but they let us out anyway. We must not resemble refugees. Our only vow today is to not get ripped off by a taxi driver, like back in Budapest! That translates here in Transylvania into lugging heavy backpacks for over two miles traversing snow and ice-covered sidewalks. It’s not about the money, it’s the principle (and a sore back).
Room with a view and de facto fridge
After another nineteen cups of espresso at a coffee shop where we also get directions, Viola! We splurge on a room with a view (US60) at the “Casa Wagner,” smack in the middle of Piata Sfatului, the old town square.
Piata Sfatului – The old town square
Off to a pub! It’s almost noon. We get better tourist information at pubs that at info centers. Silviu, the barkeep at the “Old Firm Beer House,” tells us his favorite local restaurants and his impressions of Americans. “When I worked in Constanta on the Black Sea, American soldiers would come to the bar and drink like maniacs,” he says. “They couldn’t pronounce my name, so they called me ‘Dude’ but I didn’t mind.”
The pedestrian street
We roam around yet another fantasy land of cobbled streets, bohemian cafes, statues, medieval spires, and a Gothic black church, so named due to fire damage.
Note the “Hollywood style” Brasov sign above
We take the cable car up Mt. Tampa for inspiring views of the city and take note of the Hollywood style sign near the viewing platform. Really liking this place.
Brasov from the cable car up Mt. Tampa
Off to the first of Silviu’s recommended restaurants, “Gaura Dulce” (sweet hole) which has historical roots as a brothel. Let’s get Romanian, with an order of pork liver, fried brains, bounce enticed beef tongue, and blood sausage. Delicious. We even took leftovers and ate our brains out for breakfast the next morning!
Liver, brains, and tongue – oh my!
Vasile, from the hotel, agrees to drive us to Bran Castle, often referred to as “Dracula’s Castle,” about 20 miles away. Built around 1380, this spectacular castle imprisoned Vlad the Impaler for about two months.
Bran Castle
It became associated with Dracula because of appearance rather than Vlad’s brief stay. Mainly furnished and lived in by Queen Marie around the 1920’s, the antiques and secret passages add to the Dracula mystique. A deep shaft leads to a stream on the village level for sneaky ins and outs.
Welcome to Bran Castle
Some locals believe in “Strigoi,” whose souls leave their body at night and torment people. They hunt prey until daylight when they lose their power. Dracula derives from these myths.
The King’s bed inside Bran Castle
Roaming around the hilltop ruins of Rasnov Fortress, a short driving distance away, you could almost see fur donning peasants walking around. Stone vaults held food and supplies for villagers to survive in the event of an invasion by nomadic tribes and armies.
Rasnov Fortress
Back at our haven, we waste no time trying another of Silviu’s restaurant recommendations, “Sergiana,” for some more Romanian fare. Subterranean tables greet you with breaded, fried chunks of pork belly. I order the Sarmale (cabbage rolls that originated in Romania) accompanied by pork chop sized hunks of bacon, and Marilynn orders the Ciorba (Transylvanian sour soup with smoked gammon, tarragon, sour cream, and lemon juice or vinegar). This is perhaps one of our best meals ever.
Sergiana, our favorite restaurant in Brasov
Struggling to make forward plans forces us to extend our stay in this lovely city. I guess we’ll need to visit Sergiana one more time before lugging those backpacks again.
OUTSTANDING…
Fabulous!
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Beautiful!!!!
The food is amazing too!
Looks like a wonderful place! Years ago I read a book by Robert D. Kaplan about travelling in Romania/Transylvania (among other places) and really pulled at me. Loving the photos, prose. But I don’t know that I could eat all that liver and brains….sorry about the Budapest rip-off. Safe travels! BTW does Silvie speak English?
Jill, We are really enjoying Romania. And yes, Silviu spoke English. Most everyone does, except for the older folks. But you don’t see many of them. I figured they have all died early from heart disease. I have now eaten more meat in 3 weeks than I probably have in the last 3 years. But when in Eastern Europe…well you know. Thanks for traveling along with us. Marilynn
Loving these blogs and pics! The brains, tongue, and liver meal is a bit disturbing, but obviously, nothing is wasted. Yikes! What a beautiful village! And the Dracula Castle, oh, yeah. I’m all about following you two to Romania. Continued safe travels, and here’s to no mas crooked cabbies!
Kim, lots of walking to burn off that tender, tasty pork fat! I’ll walk miles and miles for more pork fat.
Once I came really close to visit Romania. Seeing your pictures I wish I had done it.
Hello, Cecilia. Yes, hopefully you will have another opportunity for a visit. We are here in the winter off-season which is very affordable and not crowded. The amazing sites and culture/food is calling you!
Hi Ron, it’s Rob here 🙂
I know a few years have passed since your visit to Brasov but a lot have changed. We have a new mayor and smoking was banned in the restaurants and bars interiors. Unfortunately, because of the pandemic, a lot of restaurants had to close the interiors but I am sure everything will be back to normal soon. I see what you did there, with an emphasis on food. Indeed, Romanians eat a lot of meat. And although I am a foodie myself, I can’t eat brain and tongue. It’s just not for me…
What activities did you have in while in Brasov? You know, there are a lot more things to do in Brasov than restaurants 🙂
Bear watching in the wild, fortified churches to visit, hiking in the nearby mountains… Here’s a list, I hope it helps https://outdoorholidays.eu/blog/top-things-to-do-brasov-romania/
Oh, and next time you’re in Brasov, hit me up.
Hi Rob, since we were there in winter, we mostly roamed the streets and hung out in bars and restaurants enjoying the food. Once the world opens up again, who knows where we’ll end up? We would like to see Brasov in the other seasons.