From much of the literature, and conversations with Cape Town locals on our 22-hour flight, we deplane expecting to get robbed and stabbed. Arriving at the hostel too early to check-in, a young man with an “I Dream of Jeannie” hairstyle and a nose ring looks up from smoking a joint. “Leave those backpacks here or they’ll rip them from your back.” We relax with a brew and dine on ostrich burgers tonight. Our travel plan for the next three months includes renting a car to explore South Africa and neighboring countries. (And move to a different hostel)
Capetown, South Africa
Let’s walk Cape Town for a week…
Shops, restaurants, and yachts larger than our house line the Waterfront. Fresh seafood is plentiful, from delectable sushi to Mozambique shrimp. We get lost near Sea Point along the Atlantic shore. White folks with pepper spray strapped around their wrists are walking their Jack Russell Terriers, and we ask a man for directions. “Stay away from the blacks,” he advises. “They will knife you even after you’re robbed.” Hmm…it’s time for a beer! Mitchell’s Scottish Ale House seems appropriate.
The Waterfront
Televised NFL is out of the question, so we hop a train to what many call the world’s most spectacular Cricket venue. Not understanding the game, $2.00 beers and hot dogs win us over. The athleticism of Cricket players surprises me.
Newlands Cricket Stadium with the Castle Brewery conveniently located nearby
The proprietor at hostel “Atlantic Point” cooks-up a traditional Braai, a South African “meat grill” of beef, lamb, chicken, boerewors (farmer’s sausage), with beers.
Braii, African Bar-B-Q
We meet Shannon at the Braai, a thirty-one year old geophysicist from Houston who works on a gas/oil exploration ship. The next day we hike with her up the steep, high-stepping Platteklip Gorge Trail.
Platteklip Gorge Trail
This trail gains 2300 feet in elevation up Table Mountain in under two miles. At the top, views of Cape Town and numerous bays blow us away. We are happy to take the cable car back down.
Looking down on Lion’s Head from the top of Table Mountain
In the morning, barricaded streets give us the impression that a “fun run” is getting started. Turns out to be a massive march of black people celebrating the 103rd anniversary of the ANC (African National Congress).
ANC supporters marching to the Cape Town Stadium
The ANC is a social democratic party founded in 1912 to unite Africans against white majority rule. Supported by the communist party, it has been in power since the establishment of multi-racial democracy in 1994. Ironically, we pick this day to visit the District Six Museum, which powerfully displays how apartheid affected the daily lives of regular folks being forcefully removed from their homes and segregated. I’ll bet that the Sea Point folks are nervous today. We’re starting to question our travel plans as well.
Just one of the disturbing displays at the District 6 Museum
The proprietor at our hostel relaxes us. “Don’t worry, the Sea Point and Cape Town locals are neurotic paranoid about danger,” he says. “The best way to see South Africa is to drive, and the only way to do Kruger National Park is to camp.”
Table Mountain
Feeling a range of emotions from paranoid to safe (alcohol helps) the amazing beauty and fresh air of South Africa wins out over our fears. We purchase a tent and sleeping bags and rent a car. After all, we’re here to explore South Africa and neighboring countries.
Thanks for sharing, so interesting!!! Will be thinking of good times and protective energy surrounding you throughout your journey.
Thanks Carla. We are looking forward to heading out tomorrow for an awesome adventure!
for more than a moment, you moved my mind across an ocean. couldn’t stop reading. safe travels and enjoy.
Gene, hard to believe, but when we drive off tomorrow the first stop may be a penguin colony on a land with no ice. Travel definitely moves all of our minds, just not quite sure where or even why!
Love the post! I hope you didn’t get robbed or stabbed while writing it:)!
Mark, you make me think of a Dave Chappelle scene, my oh my.
Have a great adventure! Be careful!
Thanks, Vicky. I’m sure that common sense and human spirit will guide us even when were lost.
WOW…I didn’t know you were off on another trip… STAY SAFE, be Careful…I await the many stories of your adventure(s).
Skip, an ol’ Marine like you would love this place!
Fantastic scenery, how is the beer? Stay safe friends. Dwight
Dwight, Castle beer is 5% tasty with only about 150 calories per bottle. I’m on a 1200 calorie per day diet!
Yahoo! You’re back on the road traveling and posting! Great shots and good, catchy prose. Can’t wait for more as you continue your African adventure.
Jill, I second that “Yahoo!” from one fellow traveler to another.
Wow the view from the top looks frickin awesome. I think I’d make a habit to look over my shoulder if the locals are advising to not ask the blacks because they won’t hesitate to stab you. But you guys are experienced travelers so I’m sure you did your research as to what to watch for during your journey. Be careful-stay safe.
Glenn, we don’t trust anybody anyway (previous professions) regardless of color! Got to realize that we have higher homicide rates in Chicago and Detroit.
Stay safe kids!!!! Your ma, pa and Jackeroo look forward to your safe return….
No worries, folks. We’re having such a great time that it’s flying by!
Wishing you great adventures. I look forward to following your trip.
Eric Jorgensen
Thanks, Eric. I’m glad that you enjoyed New Mexico and Colorado. Sunshine does lift the spirits!
Continue to explore and have fun. Enjoyed reading of your adventures. Love you my friends.
We love you like family, Mary Anne. We’ll have a sit down this April!
Love > Fear
True words, Doug.