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ST. PETERSBURG: SYMPATHY FOR THE DEVIL

That song from the Rolling Stones plays in our heads. A stranger on the streets of St. Petersburg helps us locate the MIR Hostel. (We know 5 words in Russian) Our first order of business will be the ominous task of copping train tickets from the notoriously impatient, cold-hearted women behind the counters in the crowded train station. The receptionist at MIR writes our ticket requests in Russian for us.

Probably should not drink while doing this

Probably should not drink while doing this

Exhausted from no sleep last night, we hit the streets to find an ATM in order to get roubles. The first thing I notice…most women in St. Petersburg are gorgeous…with long legs, high cheekbones, and provocative style. Mare agrees.

Women

After numerous attempts, our ATM card will not work. We must break in to our emergency cash fund, and find a money exchange in order to purchase train tickets. Our panic subsides once we have cash in hand. We walk the streets and stroll past the “Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood,” which dwarfs our senses and relieves our exhaustion.

Church of spilled blood

A 2-hour walk leads us to Moskovsky vokzal train station. Our hearts pound fast, while waiting in one of the many long lines that lead to the grouchy women, who reject some potential purchasers. What will we do if we cannot purchase tickets for our Trans-Siberian Railway trip? The ticket ladies walk away from their station at random, for a necessary break, leaving lines standing. What else can they do?

Views of the city

Finally, we reach the window, and hand the written Russian language ticket requests to the “Soup Nazi.” We neither move nor smile. She looks at the request and then glares at us. “Passport.” We hand them under the window. She fumbles papers, and taps on a keyboard. I take out my wallet. She somehow notices and shouts, “No Visa!” Okay, 24,000 roubles later we have train tickets to Moscow, and then on to Novosibirisk!

Borsch

We celebrate at a street side café with drinks and Country Borshch soup.

I feel like grandpa, dodging the kids in the hostel kitchen in the morning. A gal on the couch, who speaks some English, notices me. She calls me over. “Russians not rude, culture not shake hands or look at you. If you smile at people, they will think something is wrong with their face.” Well, that is good to know.

Hermitage

Back on the streets we pass the Hermitage, which holds unimaginable works of art.

Artists

Roam through Peter and Paul Fortress and view the many cathedrals and domes in the city from a river beach, while artists sketch the scene.

From St. Isaac's

Climb the stairs of St. Isaac’s spire for panoramic views of St. Pete.

Midnight

Eat sushi in a café at midnight, which looks like noon on the city streets.

The Kazan Cathedral is the only one that is not a museum. I light 3 candles, hoping for health and happiness for those I love.

Kazan

At the train station, Mare receives an e-mail from Joel, our credit union contact. Joel has fixed our bank card! I withdraw roubles from the ATM with glee. Thank you for saving us, Joel, our hero!

While Mare is out in the station, trying to decipher Russian language procedure signs, a young woman from Moscow sits next to me. She wants to show me around Moscow, and practice her English. Mare comes back, and suddenly, the woman cannot speak English. Oh well, time to catch a train…    spaSIba, Abundant Universe!                                Ron Mitchell

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12 Comments Post a comment
  1. You guys know how to survive and thrive in strange cultures. The writing is alive. Stay well.

    June 12, 2013
    • Larry, so far I manage to find a beer in any country…we’ll see.

      June 12, 2013
      • Marilynn #

        And women…he finds beer and women. LOL

        June 12, 2013
  2. martiwrites #

    Other than the two hour walk…

    June 12, 2013
    • Marti, in truth we walked and then stood in line. We walked back, and were on our feet for at least 6 straight hours. Then we found food and drink.

      June 12, 2013
  3. This is a delightful post! I can feel the Russian culture. Not sure Russia is near the top of my list, well, it’s not, but this makes me wanna go more.

    June 12, 2013
    • Thanks, Jill. We are surprised with the decent food thus far…sushi is on many menus, at least in St. Pete and Moscow.

      June 12, 2013
  4. Marilynn #

    Jill, it was very difficult to secure visas for Russia and once here we have found this to be the most challenging destination we have encountered…and we are still in “European Russia.”

    June 12, 2013
    • Hope the far east goes more smoothly, or at least the cultural experience compensates for the hassles.

      June 16, 2013
      • Things are certainly getting more difficult. We have a contact here in Novasibirisk, Oleg, a friend of Mare’s sister. He helped us purchase train tickets. Brought us to hostel…what a relief! Hostel said we were 1st foreigners that they had ever had. No tourists whatsoever in this town!

        June 16, 2013
  5. Ma & Pa #

    This is all so beautiful and interesting.. we get to see all this without leaving Longview….

    June 12, 2013
    • And I’m sending luck from Moscow, for you to hit the Queen of Hearts at the Polish American Club tonight!

      June 12, 2013

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