Sometimes the anticipation, planning, and high expectation of an upcoming major event ends up with a mediocre or even disappointing outcome. Not this time. Pushing 33.5 miles (54K) in three days of hiking through the Milford Sound Track turns out even more amazing than we imagined. The five-day guided trek through “Ultimate Hikes” included transportation, meals, four guides for fifty people, and four nights in various wilderness lodges. Yes, I am the eldest of the group with Marilynn a not so distant second.
Map of Milford Sound Track
After the first couple days of cold turkey “google detox” we barely gave the internet universe a second thought. Listening to real sounds. Seeing and feeling live sights of Mother Earth’s rugged remote stillness between mountains, fjords and waterfalls fills us with strength and appreciation.
Glade Lodge, Milford Sound Track
Here we go! Milford Sound Track
Only one hundred hikers are allowed daily to walk through this part of Fiordland National Park, fifty guided and fifty independents, from late October to April. Permits usually sell out the day they go on sale. We are lucky to have grabbed a spot booking in late November.
Wetlands, Milford Sound Track
Off we go. All fifty of us. Once out on this expansive trail, we soon separate by pace and do not see each other again until a mandatory lunch stop. Only once did we spot a couple of independent hikers, as they stay in huts away from the lodges. Most often it feels like Marilynn and I are the only people on the trail.
Clinton River, Milford Sound Track
Prairie Falls, Prairie Lake, Milford Sound Track
At the lodges, where generators turn off from ten o’clock pm to six o’clock am, you cannot escape the social scene. Breakfast and dinner challenge a not so sociable person, like me. But we are graced with a lovely group and make new friends from Australia, Germany, New Zealand, and Alaska.
Day One, Milford Sound Track
Blue Duck, Milford Sound Track
Lots of Hanging Moss, Milford Sound Track
The first day of trekking takes us over ten miles of mostly flat, forest covered terrain along the clear Clinton River. We enjoy cool, dry weather, perfect for hiking this entire day.
Weka Bird trying to steal Ron’s lunch, Milford Sound Track
You can drink and fill up your water bottle at any stream in Fiordland. Void of agriculture and wildlife, except for birds, a handful of rodents, and brown trout, nothing pollutes this glacial/rain fed water.
Ground Robin, Milford Sound Track
Brown Trout in the Clinton River, Milford Sound Track
Take off that backpack at the end of the day, grab a warm shower at the lodge, and crack a cold one. Helps kill any pain and ease a bit of social anxiety. Enjoy a rack of lamb, fish, or a strange, tortuous, vegan thing if you wish. Well-earned rewards that all of us look forward to at the end of the day.
Lamb for Dinner, Milford Sound Track
Kea Bird on Play Station, Pompolona Lodge, Milford Sound Track
Leaving the Clinton River, Milford Sound Track
Our second day promises only nine miles (15K). But it shoots straight up a mountain, through a typically cold windy pass, and then straight down the other side, often in knee deep water from the rain.
Views as we Climb, Milford Sound Track
The Changing Terrain, Milford Sound Track
Mackinnon Pass, Milford Sound Track
The travel angels are with us. On this hard walking day, partly sunny skies, slight breezes, and cool refreshing temperatures grace us. No rain in sight. Yet again, perfect hiking weather. I do not want to visualize hiking this pass in harsh weather. As it is, I shall grab more than one cold one this evening to kill the pain from that steep descent.
Mackinnon Pass, Milford Sound Track
Mackinnon Pass, Milford Sound Track
Descending from Mackinnon Pass, Milford Sound Track
Anderson Cascades, Milford Sound Track
The third, and final hiking day takes us for 13.5 miles (21K). Mostly flat or rocky terrain, being forested and surrounded by rivers, creeks, and waterfalls eases the distance. Even so, my feet no longer speak to me.
Day Three, Milford Sound Track
Roaring Burn River, Milford Sound Track
Arthur River, Milford Sound Track
Mackay Falls, Milford Sound Track
Giant Gate Falls, Milford Sound Track
But we make it. Welcome to Sandfly Point!
Success! Sandfly Point, End of Milford Sound Track
A short boat ride brings us to our accommodations on the Milford Sound. Big party in the lodge tonight!
Milford Sound, Near Mitre Peak Lodge
In the morning, after a boat ride around Milford Sound, Marilynn and I opt to take the “easy” way back to Queenstown, via helicopter.
Views of part of the Milford Sound Track from helicopter
The last time we visited New Zealand was 23 years ago. Thought that it was one of the most beautiful places we had ever been. Finally made it back. Since then, we have visited 100 + countries. We still think that New Zealand is one of the most beautiful places on earth.
Views from helicopter flight from Milford Sound to Queenstown
Taking the easy way back to Queenstown
Thank you, Abundant Universe!
Yeah! Been waiting for this post. Question, if you didn’t take the chopper, you needed to backtrack and hike out the way you came? Anyway, glad you splurged. So gorgeous, NZ reminded me a bit of the Pacific Northwest when I visited in 1989. Geologically not that different (ring of fire). The lake shot with the kayaks reminds me of Two Medicine Lake in Glacier National Park, where I started and finished a 3-day trek in 2021, and I so relate (and laughed) at “my feet no longer speak to me.” I have found my feet are the biggest issue with hiking long distances as a “senior.” Happy tramping! (Do the Kiwis still call it tramping instead of trekking or hiking?).
Take a bus, and then a boat to this one-way hike from Te Anau to Milford Sound. We splurged on helicopter rather than another four-hour bus ride back to Queenstown. They call it “Walking” around here. One foot at a time, baby!
Hi Ron- just read your Milford Track blog. I did it for the second time in Dec 24 with family and grandkids, also with Ultimate Hikes. I also did it with family when my children were still children. Les glamorous as we used the DOC huts. I completely love this walk.
Hi Virginia, this hike is certainly worth repeating. We were very lucky with the weather on our first go around!
Oops, Marilynn just corrected me. They do call it “Tramping” here. Still, though, one foot at a time!
You are always living such an abundant life! Again, in awe of the beauty, and always in awe of your adventurous and passionate spirits. I love the enlightenment about other places around the world. This one did not disappoint. None of your blogs have!
A million thank you’s to you! We love to share and love it when others love it!
Your photos are breathtaking! What gorgeous scenery and a very impressive and descriptive text to go along with it!
Awe, you making me blush Lady Sue!
Thanks for the storytelling, pictures and the hiking adventure (without the pain). This pristine journey is one of the best yet! Keep trekking!
Oh me oh my o. Ignoring the pain gets harder and harder, but as you say, keep trekking!
Amazing stuff! The older I get the more I appreciate backcountry lodges, but there is definitely a trade off with being around others when one of the best things about the Wild is the solitude. Curious to know, if you were to do it again would you do the group hike or solo? Also I’ve never been able to back pack and drink straight from the streams, what a perk!
I’d do the lodge. It’s nice to take a shower, dry your clothes, and not have to cook before lying on a mattress to sleep at the end of the day. Didn’t have to load pack with bedding. Only clothing for all weather and lunch sandwiches that you make each morning after breakfast buffet.Truly, on the trail you do not see any other humans for most of the time. But, the independent backpacking is even way more luxurious than the old days. Huts with cots, just need to bring sleeping bag and food.