We have neither seen nor eaten Cod Tongues for seven years, the last time we ventured into Labrador. It is one of the food treats we look forward to revisiting.

Let us celebrate completing the roughest part of the Trans-Labrador Highway with a three-night stay at the Whaler’s Restaurant and Cabins in Red Bay, Labrador, population 150.

Red Bay, Labrador

“Roughing it” reminds us to appreciate the small pleasures in life, like finding a laundromat in a remote town, or a room complete with running water and a flushing toilet. Guess what is on the menu tonight – Cod Tongues!

Cod Tongues for Dinner

Wander around this small community and wonder how they survive the harsh winters. Thanks for good health and mobility, as we navigate trails over rugged landscape that reminds us of the Scottish Highlands.

Images of Red Bay

Some of the 689 Steps of Tracy Hill Trail, Red Bay, Labrador

Gaze out at the Strait of Belle and breathe in the crisp, fresh air.

Lazy Afternoons in Red Bay

Shipwrecks vouch for the history of whaling in this area. Between 1530 and 1600, Basque whalers from France and Spain launched at least fifteen whaling ships with six hundred men each season, producing tons of whale oil to ship back to Europe.

Wreck of the Bernier, Red Bay, Labrador

Saddle Island, which was used during the peak whaling period, boasts the best-preserved remains of the whaling industry, not to mention a good crop of bakeapple berries.

Touring Saddle Island National Historic Site, Red Bay, Labrador

Bakeapple Berries in Red Bay, Labrador

While whaling used to rule, now, it is all about “In Cod We Trust” as the main source for tables and world shipping business. No surprise that the only open restaurant in town features Cod Fish and Chips, Cod Tongues, and Salt Cod Fish Cakes.

Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland

Time to ferry across to “The Rock” better known as the island of Newfoundland. Camp among the fjords of Gros Morne National Park and hike its trails after rustling up some bacon and eggs for breakfast in the woods. This stuff will keep you young. Well, maybe not the bacon so much.

Camping Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland

Dildo. It is not what you are thinking. Before the sex-toy thing, it was a term for the oar pegs in a dory, the pivot points where oars rest while rowing. We lug our camping gear down wooden stairs to set up tent alongside the bay in Dildo Run Provincial Park. The best campsite ever. Until morning, when sideways rain and 50mph winds chase us away.

Dildo Run Provincial Park, Newfoundland

Dildo Run Provincial Park, Newfoundland

We shall clean-up at an Airbnb in the town of Cow Head, before hiking in Nanny’s Hole. Then we shall hike Lower Head. Sensing a theme here with these titles, wondering about the explorer Captain Cook’s sense of humor.

Cow Head, Newfoundland

Sunset Cow Head, Newfoundland

Hiking to Nanny’s Hole, Newfoundland

Hiking to Lower Head, Newfoundland

Eventually, we ferry over to Fogo Island and stay two nights in a Salt House. The ceilings in this Salthouse are only six-feet (1.829 meters) high and we feel like giants. I get busy in the kitchen cooking cod tongues (of course) and a special treat of lobster!

Views from our Salt House, Fogo Island, Newfoundland

Lobster for Dinner

On this island, hikes amongst peat and rugged, windblown countryside refresh our love for the diverse outdoors.

Hiking Fogo Head, Newfoundland

Views from Fogo Head, Fogo Island, Newfoundland

Late Afternoon Hike, Fogo Island, Newfoundland

We ferry our way back to the “Rock” and make our way to the rocking town of St. John’s. Here, we shall live for one month in a town full of restaurants, live music, and fried cod galore!

St. John’s, Newfoundland

Thank You, Abundant Universe!

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