The pastel colors and ornate buildings that fill the vibrant city of Stockholm surprise us. For whatever reason, we expected more of a grimy downtown area. This lively city presents quite a contrast to our previous stay in the city of Helsinki. It also surprises us that Sweden’s bustling capital is built upon fourteen islands, connected by fifty-seven bridges. We can only wonder if Marilynn’s grandfather built one of them before he immigrated to the United States long ago. Many bridges in the Pacific Northwest bear a plaque with his name on it.

Riddarholmen Church, Stockholm, Sweden

Stortorget Square, Gamla Stan, Stockholm, Sweden

Lunch Downtown Stockholm, Sweden

Since we arrive too early for check-in, we may as well hop on a boat for a three-hour tour to see this city of islands from the viewpoint of the water. Crisp, fresh, scentless air blows around us while Marilynn takes photos. A theme song from an old television show “Gilligan’s Island” plays in my head. Within three hours the weather went from rain, chilly wind, clouds, and sweltering sunshine to cool, clear skies. They call it bipolar weather.

Stockholm, Sweden

Grona Lund Amusement Park, Stockholm, Sweden

Stockholm, Sweden

Once settled into a room, we go out to pound the cobblestone streets of “Old Town” in search of food and drink. Of course, Swedish meatballs dominate my thoughts, while Marilynn finds fish delights, including the most dominant dish in Sweden – small, peeled pink shrimp served in an array of salads and sandwiches. The revered lingonberry appears on a plate with most every dish.

Gamla Stan (Old Town), Stockholm Sweden

Swedish Meatballs

Swedish Shrimp Salad

Walking the streets of Stockholm leads to constant surprises, like impressive buildings, waterways and boats. However it does nothing to battle my bulging belly. As my wife sums it up so subtly, “I have never seen you so heavy.” The mirror has been telling me the same thing. My desire to try all foods and beers that every different country has to offer during the past three months carries a heavy price. The ultra expansive breakfast buffets start fueling my hedonistic nature early in the morning. Ah, but even Marilynn cannot resist black licorice ice cream in a black licorice cone, which reminds her of her Mother. Nor can she resist a daily Fika, combined with casual conversation which constitutes one of the basic, daily rituals of Swedish culture. Swedish blood does run through her veins, and I notice how similar she looks to the women here.

Black Licorice Ice Cream

“Fika” (coffee and cinnamon bun) in Gamla Stan, Stockholm, Sweden

Thankfully, traveler friendly gyms help ease our cause. The gym attendants here let us work-out for free. A huge difference from the expensive gyms in Finland. We note the open, receptive nature of the Swedes. They surprise us with their smiles and “Hei” in a genuine manner. We even chat and laugh. While they do not show much emotion, and never get loud or boisterous, they do seem more tolerant of small talk and my sometimes silly banter.

Royal Palace, Stockholm, Sweden

Parliament House, Stockholm, Sweden

Time to rent a car and head out through the Swedish countryside to the southernmost region of Skane. We fall in love with the seaside city of Malmo right away. Full of walking paths, biking paths and swimming platforms, it is perfect for working off those continuing food indulgences. Watching the sunset at a seaside café, munching on mussels in cream sauce and fresh bread is hard to argue with, or resist.

Vastra Hamnen Area, Malmo, Sweden

Swimming/Dipping Platforms, Malmo, Sweden

Mussels in Malmo, Sweden

Sunset, Malmo, Sweden

“Oresund” bridge connects Malmo to Copenhagen, Denmark. One of the coolest train and car bridges ever, it runs five miles (8 km) across the sea from the Swedish coast to an island, and then descends into a three-mile long (4 km) tunnel below the sea to the shore of Denmark, so that boats and airplanes can pass above. Cars have to pay a toll, but the train simply shoots straight into downtown Copenhagen. So, let’s shoot over for some lunch.

Oresund Bridge, Malmo, Sweden

After a forty-minute train ride from Malmo we pound the streets of Copenhagen and find our favorite place to eat, the Torvehallernek KBH Market.

Copenhagen, Denmark

The proximity to this market makes Malmo an even more desirable destination for this hungry boy.

Lunch, Torvehallernek KBH Market, Copenhagen, Denmark

Oysters, Torvehallernek KBH Market, Copenhagen, Denmark

Back in Malmo, we strolled past the “The Turning Torso,” a residential complex regarded as the second twisted skyscraper in the world. Until 2022 it was the tallest building in the Nordic region. We are on our way to the “Disgusting Food Museum.”

The Turning Torso, Malmo, Sweden

We were a bit disappointed with the museum. It turns out that we have eaten the bulk of these disgusting foods at one point or another during our life of travels, including tarantula, guinea pig, fermented shark, most insects, fermented camel milk…, you get the picture. We opt not to play the museum tasting game, where most often someone vomits after tasting or smelling one of the treats they offer.

The Disgusting Food Museum, Malmo, Sweden

Although we have eaten rocky mountain oysters (bull testicles) on more than one occasion, we have never tasted, nor do we intend to taste, bull penis.

Bull Penis, Malmo, Sweden

Bull Penis, Disgusting Food Museum, Malmo, Sweden

Time to hit the road again, in the old trusty rental car where I had unknowingly accumulated two electronic parking tickets. Driving up the west coast of Sweden, we stop for lunch in the small town of Hoganas.

Hoganas, Sweden

We searched for accommodations, but no luck, so must continue driving. Right through an atmospheric river rainstorm that nearly washes us off the road.

Trouble Brewing, Hoganas, Sweden

We settle for the night in a hotel on a farm that reminds us of the movie, “The Shining.” American country music plays softly in the background, where multiple candles burn on candelabras spread out in large rooms void of any people.

Finally, in the small fishing village of Smogen, we find seafood nirvana and a summer seaside paradise destination for locals. This entire area stretching along the west coast of Sweden north to the border with Norway, is home to a plethora of seafood delicacies, along with opportunities for boating and sailing around over 8,000 islands.

Smogen, Sweden

Boardwalk, Smogen, Sweden

Serious Fishing, Smogen, Sweden

Crisp, fresh, scentless air blows while Marilynn hikes around the prehistoric rocks and takes photos of the colorful marinas and bays that line Smogen and the neighboring town of Kungshamn. Meanwhile, the theme song from “The Flintstone’s” plays in my head.

Boathouses, Smogen, Sweden

Exploring the Terrain near Smogen, Sweden

Boathouses, Smogen, Sweden

Boathouses, Kungshamn, Sweden

We find a tiny, overpriced room in the town of Kungshamn, with a view worth the price, right on the docks.

Enjoying the View From our Dock, Kungshamn, Sweden

Sunrise, Kungshamn, Sweden

Smogen Area Islands, Smogen, Sweden

Millions of minnow mackerel swim around the jellyfish. Ah, then you see what happens to the mackerel when they grow up.

Millions of Minnows, Kungshamn, Sweden

Mackerel, Smogen, Sweden

Norwegian lobster (langostinos) tempts us on the dock. Too bad we have no kitchen. Instead, we are “forced” to indulge with the other tourists at the excellent seafood restaurants that line the boardwalk.

Norwegian Lobster, Smogen, Sweden

Restaurants lining the Boardwalk, Smogen, Sweden

Kungshamn Harbor, Kungshamn, Sweden

Definitely a place we could spend more time, but it is time to make our way back to Stockholm for a flight back to the States. After three months on the road and twelve countries between the two of us, we are a tad travel weary and look forward to the return home. What a long, grand trip it has been!

Cheers!

Thank You, Abundant Universe!