Mt. Etna, Horsemeat, and More!

Time to rent a car and go hike Mt. Etna. Need to pull ourselves away from this comfortable room with a view and at least do reconnaissance.

Driving in Sicily will freak you out at first with all the unwritten rules of disregarding street lines, red lights, and stop signs. You must “go native” by tailgating and pulling out in front of people. Somehow it works. Driving like this could get you shot back in Phoenix, Arizona. Oddly, road rage does not seem to exist here.

Deep snow covers Mt Etna, and intense 55 MPH winds grounded the cable car. No way and nowhere to hike today, except for the lava road used by “Armageddon” machines, which took us to the cable car’s last stop. “We’ll be back.”

One traveler told us that she found the Greek ruins in Sicily more impressive than those in Greece. We shall see. In the city of Syracusa, the Neapolis Archeological Park provides home to “Teatro Greco” and the “Ear of Dionysios,” a carved-out cave next to the stone quarry where prisoners slaved.

More impressive to us was Syracusa’s historical center on the island of Ortiga.

Marilynn goes crazy with the photogenic alleys, fountains, and cathedrals, while I purchase Cannella, a cinnamon flavored liquor, from a man with the surname of Canella.

Back “home” we stumbled upon a local Sunday fish market a short walk away from the suite. Who knew?

Tonight, I roasted sea bass on a bed of chopped leek and fennel, doused with extra virgin olive oil and lemon of course. Nothing beats fresh caught fish bought straight off the boat.

The nearby village of Taormina sits high on a hill and boasts a restored Greco-Roman Theater that is still in use today.

We wander the streets in search of the perfect Sicilian pizza and found one good enough to bring home for the Pittsburgh Steeler football playoff game that we hope to watch on my laptop at 10:30 pm.

The following day, we visit one of the most important archeological sites in the world. Temples found in the “Valley of the Temples” do impress.

As does something else that catches Marilynn’s attention. We will call it curiosity.

Nearby, we find the Scala dei Turchi, “Stairs of the Turks,” where winds carve a magnificent staircase out of limestone. The name resulted from frequent invasions by pirates, called Turks, during the Middle Ages.

Due to falling rocks we were unable to climb down the steep slope. However, locals directed us to a nearby beach where we could make our approach via the seashore.

Back “local” again, we walk to the town of Aci Castillo, where my cousin and her husband lived for nine months, with three young children, while he taught at a nearby university.

Turns out, to our surprise, that our suite with fabulous view is in Aci Castillo.

Time to taste a local delicacy. Whoa, big fella! They are grilling horsemeat on the streets at “Trattoria del Tenerissimo.”

In some countries, it is taboo to eat companion animals, but more countries eat horsemeat than not. So, we dined on Fiorentina di Cavallo (horse steak), Polpetti di cavalo (horse meatballs), and Stigghiola (lamb guts on onions). Marilynn liked it all more than I did, but we agreed that neither of us need to eat it again.

After a solid week of sunshine, it looks like the snow has melted on the south side of Mt Etna. Off we go, this time meeting a guide. Blessed with a perfect day of sunshine and mild wind, the project is a go.

We hike to the highest point permitted, at 2650 meters (8,694 feet) ascending on the eastern flank initially through a Black Larch Pine Forest.

Prohibited from hiking to the four active summit craters because of recent volcanic activity, we tramp along with Alfredo, who explains and identifies much of this magical mountain. Three-hundred lateral, dormant craters around this behemoth provide plenty of entertainment.

“Cuscino da Soggira” (Mother-in-law pillow) plants cover vast portions of this massive mountain. From spring until winter, lush greenery hides the needle-sharp spikes which often surprise novice hikers looking for a soft place to rest.

Trekking along the south wall of “Valle de Bove” shows how a recent lava flow covered a green sheep grazing area over six kilometers (3.28 miles) wide.

We end our four-hour hike with a stroll around Silvestri Crater, formed in 2001.

After the privileged day of hiking on Mt Etna, our rental car shall have a rest, and we will too. With the exception of a leisurely stroll to a seaside café to enjoy an Aperol Spritz. Arrivederci!

Thank you, Abundant Universe!